Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who make wine from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots across Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Around the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by creating permanent, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a city," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Production
Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on